Matera Travel Guide: Italy’s Ancient Cave City Uncovered

An insider’s guide to Matera: things to do and how to experience its Sassi, sights, food, and tours for an unforgettable visit

The first time you see Matera, you stop. Everyone does. You step onto a terrace and suddenly the ground falls away to reveal the “sassi“, thousands of stone dwellings cascading down a hillside, stacked on top of each other, glowing amber in the afternoon light. For a moment, you forget you’re in 21st-century Italy. This could be Jerusalem two thousand years ago. This could be a dream. But Matera is very real. This is a city carved from rock over 9,000 years ago, where homes are built on top of homes, where rooftops become streets, and where history is lived every single day. Located in Basilicata, just across the border from Puglia, Matera is barely an hour from Bari and makes an essential addition to any southern Italy itinerary. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and celebrated as the 2019 European Capital of Culture, it has completed one of the most remarkable transformations in modern history: from the shame of Italy, where desperate poverty led to forced evacuations, to a destination where those same cave dwellings now house boutique hotels and atmospheric restaurants. In this guide, you’ll discover everything you need to explore Matera like a local: its dramatic history, the iconic Sassi districts, hidden churches with ancient frescoes, authentic cuisine, and the best ways to experience a city suspended between ancient and modern worlds.

Where is Matera and Why Is It So Special?

Matera lies in the small region of Basilicata in Southern Italy, perched dramatically on the edge of a deep limestone canyon called the Gravina.

While technically not in Puglia, it sits right on the regional border, just 65 kilometers from Bari and approximately 45 minutes from Alberobello‘s famous trulli. This makes it perfectly positioned for anyone exploring southern Italy, whether you’re based in Puglia for a week or passing through on a longer journey.

What makes Matera extraordinary, what sets it apart from every other historic city in Italy, is its Sassi: two ancient districts of cave dwellings carved into and built onto the soft tufa rock over millennia. The word “Sassi” is often misunderstood by visitors who assume it means “caves,” but it actually translates simply as “stones.” These aren’t just caves in the primitive sense. They’re sophisticated dwellings where the natural rock was carved out and then extended with built facades, creating homes that look conventional from the outside but open into rooms hewn directly from limestone.

The result is a layered, vertical city where the roof of one house becomes the street for the house above, where churches hide underground, and where water was collected through an ingenious system of cisterns and channels that sustained the community for centuries.

Matera is often called “the underground city” or “the subterranean city,” and walking through its streets, you understand why. Beneath the visible layers lie more layers still: tunnels, cisterns, cellars, and crypts that extend deep into the rock.

UNESCO recognized the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches as a World Heritage Site in 1993, citing them as “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region.”

-> Discover UNESCO sites in Puglia and nearby.

More recently, Matera gained international fame as the 2019 European Capital of Culture and as a filming location for major productions. Mel Gibson chose it as the stand-in for Jerusalem in The Passion of the Christ (2004), and James Bond raced through its narrow streets in No Time to Die (2021). The city has also appeared in Wonder Woman, Ben-Hur, and Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St. Matthew.

But Matera isn’t just a backdrop for films or a museum frozen in time. It’s a living city, home to around 60,000 people, where ancient and modern exist in remarkable harmony.

The History of Matera From Ancient Times to Revival

To truly appreciate what you’re seeing when you walk through Matera’s ancient streets, you need to understand the remarkable story of this place. It’s a story that spans nine millennia, from prehistoric cave dwellers to medieval prosperity, through decades of devastating poverty that made Matera synonymous with shame, and finally to a modern renaissance that has transformed it into one of Italy’s most celebrated destinations.

Understanding this history doesn’t just add context to your visit; it makes the experience profoundly moving.

Matera’s Ancient Origins: 9,000 Years of Continuous Habitation

Matera’s roots stretch back approximately 9,000 years to the Paleolithic era, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in human history, often cited as the third oldest city in the world after Jericho and Aleppo. The first inhabitants were drawn to natural caves along the Gravina canyon, which offered shelter, fresh water, and a defensible position. Archaeological evidence suggests Neolithic communities were producing pottery here around 7000 BC.

Over millennia, these cave shelters evolved into complex structures. During the Bronze and Iron Ages, inhabitants carved deeper into the soft tufa limestone, creating underground chambers, tombs, and cisterns. The city maintained ties with Greek colonies during Magna Graecia and became a trade route under Roman rule, when a town called Matheola was founded in 251 BC. But Matera’s most distinctive features took shape during the early medieval period, when Byzantine and Benedictine monks arrived in the 7th and 8th centuries. They carved churches directly into the rock, covering walls with frescoes depicting biblical scenes. More than 150 of these rupestrian churches survive today, their ancient paintings still visible after a thousand years.

The “Shame of Italy”: Matera’s Darkest Chapter

For centuries, life in the Sassi followed patterns established in antiquity. But by the early 20th century, Matera had become a symbol of Southern Italy’s most desperate poverty. The cave dwellings were severely overcrowded: entire families of six to ten people shared a single dark room with their animals, living without electricity, running water, or sewage. Children slept in alcoves carved into walls. Light came only from the door, and the only heat came from animals and burning manure.

The health consequences were catastrophic. Malaria, typhoid, trachoma, and dysentery were rampant. Infant mortality rates were among the highest in Europe. Carlo Levi documented these conditions in his 1945 memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli, describing homes as “dark holes riddled with filth and disease.” Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi visited in 1950 and declared Matera “la vergogna nazionale”: the national shame. Two years later, the government passed a law requiring evacuation. Between 1952 and the 1970s, approximately 15,000 residents were forcibly relocated to modern housing. The ancient caves were abandoned entirely, their doors sealed shut.

Renaissance and Rebirth: From Abandonment to UNESCO Glory

Matera’s story could have ended with those sealed doors. But by the 1980s, a new generation recognized what had been lost. Local activists, historians, and architects campaigned for preservation, and a 1986 law opened the path to restoration. The turning point came in December 1993, when UNESCO inscribed the Sassi on the World Heritage List. The designation brought international attention, funding, and validation: Matera wasn’t a shame to hide but a treasure to celebrate.

The transformation accelerated. Cave dwellings became boutique hotels, former stables became restaurants, artisan workshops opened in spaces abandoned for forty years. The ultimate validation came in 2019 when Matera was designated European Capital of Culture. Today, walking through the Sassi, you see restored caves housing hotels and homes alongside unrenovated sections preserving the atmosphere of decades past. The people who were evacuated are largely gone, but many descendants have returned. The caves where their grandparents suffered are now sources of pride, symbols not of shame but of resilience.

Matera on the Silver Screen: From Pasolini to James Bond

Matera’s ancient, almost biblical landscape has attracted filmmakers for over half a century. Pier Paolo Pasolini was among the first, choosing Matera for The Gospel According to St. Matthew in 1964. Four decades later, Mel Gibson used the Sassi as Jerusalem in The Passion of the Christ (2004), introducing Matera to millions worldwide. Since then, The Nativity Story (2006), Ben-Hur (2016), and Wonder Woman (2017) have all filmed here.

The most visible recent production was No Time to Die (2021), with James Bond’s spectacular car chase through Matera’s narrow streets. The sequence was filmed around Piazza San Pietro Caveoso, where the Baroque church stands against the Gravina canyon backdrop. Walking those streets today, it’s easy to imagine the action unfolding. Unlike purpose-built film sets, everything you see is real, has been real for centuries, and will remain long after the cameras move on.

Understanding the Sassi di Matera

Before you begin exploring Matera, it helps to understand exactly what the Sassi are and how they’re organized. The term often causes confusion among first-time visitors, but once you grasp the concept, the city’s unique layout makes perfect sense, and your exploration becomes far more rewarding.

What Are the Sassi? (They’re Not Just Caves!)

The word “Sassi” literally means “stones” in Italian, not “caves” as many assume. The term refers to the two historic districts of stone dwellings that make up Matera’s ancient core. These aren’t primitive caves in the way most people imagine. They’re sophisticated structures where natural rock was carved out to create interior spaces, then extended with built facades using blocks cut from the excavation.

From the outside, many Sassi dwellings look like ordinary stone houses with proper facades, windows, and doors. Step inside, however, and you find yourself in rooms hewn directly from the limestone, with curved ceilings that follow the natural contours of the rock and walls that have been smoothed by generations of habitation.

The construction technique created something unique in urban design. Because houses were carved into the hillside at different levels, the roof of one home became the street for the house above. This vertical layering continues for approximately twelve levels spanning 380 meters in height, all connected by a complex network of paths, staircases, and small courtyards called vicinati.

The medieval city clings to the edge of the canyon in a way that makes it almost invisible from the western approach; you can be standing in the modern town without any hint of what lies just beyond. The residents also developed ingenious water management systems, channeling rainwater from the plateau above through a network of cisterns and canals that sustained the community through the dry summers. The largest of these, the Palombaro Lungo, held up to 5 million liters and is now open to visitors.

Sasso Barisano vs Sasso Caveoso: Exploring the Two Districts

The two main Sassi districts sit on either side of the Civita, Matera’s ancient acropolis where the Cathedral stands on a rocky promontory between two streambeds. Each district has its own character, and exploring both gives you a complete picture of what makes this place so extraordinary.

• Sasso Barisano takes its name from its orientation toward Bari, the regional capital to the north. This is the more developed and touristic of the two districts, with a higher concentration of boutique hotels, restaurants, wine bars, and artisan shops tucked into restored caves. The buildings here tend to be taller and more elaborate, with grander facades that reflect later periods of prosperity. Key attractions include the Church of San Pietro Barisano, the largest of Matera’s rupestrian churches, and the maze of alleys around Via Fiorentini, one of the most atmospheric streets in the city. Sasso Barisano is where you’ll find most of the evening aperitivo spots and after-dark atmosphere.

• Sasso Caveoso faces south toward Montescaglioso and feels distinctly different: more raw, more ancient, closer to what the Sassi looked like before restoration began. Many caves here remain unrestored, their empty doorways and sealed windows preserving the atmosphere of abandonment that characterized the district for decades after the evacuation. This is where you’ll find theiconic rock church of Santa Maria di Idris, built into the massive Monterrone rock that dominates the district’s skyline. The Casa Grotta museums, which recreate traditional cave dwellings with period furnishings, are also located here. Sasso Caveoso offers a more visceral connection to Matera’s difficult past, a reminder that the polished hotels and restaurants represent only the most recent chapter in a much longer story.

Both districts reward exploration without a fixed itinerary. Get deliberately lost in the narrow alleys, climb stairs that seem to lead nowhere, duck through archways into hidden courtyards. The magic of Matera is in these unexpected discoveries: a carved doorway, a fragment of fresco on a church wall, a view that opens suddenly to reveal the canyon below.

How to Get to Matera

Matera isn’t on Italy’s national rail network, a fact that sometimes deters visitors who assume it must be difficult to reach. Don’t let it. The city is actually quite accessible with a bit of planning, and the slight extra effort is part of what keeps Matera from feeling overrun. Here are your options for getting there.

By Plane: Flying into Bari Airport

The nearest major airport is Bari Karol Wojtyła (BRI), approximately 65 kilometers from Matera. Bari is well connected to European cities through low-cost carriers including Ryanair and easyJet, making it an affordable gateway to the region. From the airport, you have several options for reaching Matera:

• Pugliairbus shuttle: The most economical option. Direct service runs from Bari Airport to Matera’s central bus station, taking approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. Tickets cost around €5 and can be purchased online or at the airport.
• Private transfer: The most convenient option, especially if traveling with luggage or in a group. Expect to pay €80-120 for a standard car. Several companies operate this service, and many hotels can arrange transfers.
• Car rental: Ideal if you plan to explore the wider region. All major rental companies operate at Bari Airport. The drive to Matera takes approximately one hour via the SS99 road, which is well-maintained and straightforward. However, be aware of parking restrictions in Matera itself (see below).

There are also airports in Naples (approximately 3 hours from Matera) and Rome (approximately 4.5 hours), which may be useful if you’re combining Matera with visits to other regions.

By Car: Driving to Matera

Driving offers maximum flexibility, especially if you’re touring Puglia or other parts of Southern Italy. Matera is approximately one hour from Bari (making it one of the best day trips from Bari), 45 minutes from Alberobello, and three hours from Naples via well-maintained roads. The approach to the city is dramatic: you drive through seemingly ordinary countryside, pass through Matera’s modern suburbs, and then suddenly glimpse the ancient Sassi tumbling down the hillside.

Important parking information: The historic center of Matera is a ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato), a Limited Traffic Zone where private vehicles cannot enter without a permit. You must park outside the Sassi and walk in. This is non-negotiable: enter the ZTL without authorization and you’ll receive a substantial fine. Options include:

• Parcheggio Nicoletti Michele: Close to the Sassi, approximately €20 for 24 hours, can be reserved online. You leave your keys with the attendant.
• Parcheggio Via Saragat: Larger and cheaper at approximately €0.50 per hour. Connected to the Sassi by the Linea Sassi bus.
• Via Cappuccini: Free street parking, approximately 10-15 minutes walk from the Sassi. Fills up quickly in high season.

Contact your accommodation before arriving to ask where to park and whether they offer any assistance. Some hotels provide valet parking or can arrange to meet you at the edge of the ZTL to help with luggage.

By Train: The FAL Regional Railway

Matera does have a train station, but it’s not on the national Trenitalia network, which is why no trains appear when you search the Trenitalia website. Instead, the city is served by the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL), a regional railway connecting Bari to Matera. The journey takes approximately 1.5 hours and costs around €5 each way. Trains run several times daily, though frequency is limited compared to main-line services.

From Matera Centrale station, it’s approximately a 15-minute walk to the edge of the Sassi, though this involves some stairs. The Linea Sassi bus can take you closer if you have heavy luggage.

By Bus

Several bus companies operate direct routes to Matera from cities across Italy. MarinoBus and FlixBus both run services from Bari (approximately 1 hour, from €5), Naples (approximately 4 hours), and Rome (approximately 5-6 hours). Buses are often the most affordable option for longer distances and can be more comfortable than the regional train. Book in advance online for the best prices, especially in high season.

Getting Around Matera

Matera is a city best explored on foot, and in the Sassi districts, walking is essentially your only option. The ancient neighborhoods are pedestrian-only labyrinths of stairs and narrow lanes where no vehicle can pass. Even the alleys that look wide enough for a small car turn out to be blocked by steps, bollards, or simply the angle of the incline. This is part of what makes Matera so magical, but it also requires some preparation.

What you need to know about walking in Matera:

• Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes: This cannot be overstated. You’ll encounter countless stone steps, uneven cobblestones, and surfaces polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic. Non-slip soles are essential, especially after rain when the stones become slippery. Sandals and heels are impractical; save them for dinner in the modern town.
• Prepare for lots of stairs: The Sassi span approximately twelve levels connected by steep staircases. You’ll be climbing up and down constantly, often without handrails. This is genuinely challenging for those with mobility issues, and unfortunately, there are very few accessible routes through the historic center.
• Accept that you’ll get lost: Google Maps and other navigation apps work poorly in the Sassi. The narrow alleys, multiple levels, and lack of clear street signs conspire against digital navigation. Many visitors find this frustrating at first, then liberating. Getting lost is part of the experience. Ask locals for directions if you need to find something specific, but otherwise, let the streets lead you where they will.
• Local buses: The Linea Sassi bus connects the modern town and parking areas to Piazza San Pietro Caveoso at the heart of Sasso Caveoso. Tickets cost €1.50 and can be purchased on board. This is useful when you first arrive with luggage or when your legs have had enough stairs for one day.
• Taxis: Available for transfers between the station, parking areas, and the edge of the Sassi. They cannot enter the historic center but can drop you at access points.
• Biking: Not practical inside the Sassi due to the stairs, but excellent for exploring outside Matera. The Murgia plateau and surrounding countryside offer beautiful cycling routes, and e-bikes make the hills manageable. This is a wonderful way to reach viewpoints like Belvedere Murgia Timone or to explore the rupestrian churches scattered across the landscape.

Top Things to See and Do in Matera

Matera offers an extraordinary concentration of experiences within a compact area. You could spend a week here and still discover something new, but even a single day allows you to see the highlights. Here are the essential attractions and experiences, organized to help you plan your visit.

Wander and Get Lost in the Sassi

The single best thing to do in Matera is also the simplest: put away your phone, forget about your map, and just walk.

The Sassi reward aimless exploration in a way that few places can. Every narrow alley leads somewhere unexpected. Every staircase reveals a new view. Every doorway hints at the life behind it, whether that’s a boutique hotel, an artisan workshop, a family home where laundry still dries on lines stretched across the stone, or an abandoned cave with its door sealed decades ago.

Start in one of the main squares and let the streets pull you in whatever direction feels right. In Sasso Barisano, Via Fiorentini winds through the heart of the district, passing cave churches, small piazzas, and countless photogenic corners. In Sasso Caveoso, the area around Piazza San Pietro Caveoso offers dramatic views over the Gravina canyon and leads to the iconic rock church of Santa Maria di Idris. But the real discoveries come when you veer off these main routes: a hidden courtyard where cats sun themselves on warm stones, a fragment of medieval fresco visible through an open door, a viewpoint where you suddenly see the entire sweep of the Sassi tumbling down the hillside.

The quality of light in Matera changes dramatically throughout the day, and each time offers something different. Early morning, before the tour groups arrive, has a quiet magic: soft light on the pale stone, the sound of church bells, locals opening their shops. Late afternoon brings the golden hour, when the Sassi glow amber and orange against the deepening blue of the sky. And after dark, when thousands of small lights illuminate the stone facades, Matera transforms into what locals call a“presepe vivente,” a living nativity scene that seems to hover between earth and sky.

Explore the Rock Churches (Chiese Rupestri)

Scattered throughout Matera and the surrounding Murgia plateau are approximately 150 rupestrian churches: places of worship carved directly into the rock, many dating from the 8th to 13th centuries when Byzantine and Benedictine monks settled in this region. These aren’t mere caves repurposed for prayer. They’re sophisticated sacred spaces with carved altars, vaulted ceilings, and walls covered in frescoes that have survived more than a thousand years. The paintings follow Byzantine iconographic traditions: Christ Pantocrator, the Virgin Mary, saints with gold halos, scenes from scripture rendered in deep reds, blues, and ochres that still glow despite the centuries.

Several rock churches are essential viewing:

• Santa Maria de Idris: The most iconic of Matera’s rock churches, built into the massive Monterrone rock that dominates Sasso Caveoso. The small interior connects to the crypt of San Giovanni in Monterrone and contains 12th and 13th-century frescoes. But even if you don’t go inside, the external setting is spectacular: the church seems to grow directly from the rock, and its position offers panoramic views of the Sassi below.
• San Pietro Barisano: The largest rupestrian church in Matera, located in the district that shares its name. Recently restored, it features carved altars, 17th-century frescoes, and an eerie underground crypt where deceased priests were placed in stone seats to decompose. The crypt is not for the squeamish, but it offers a remarkable insight into medieval attitudes toward death.
• Santa Lucia alle Malve: Originally a convent for Benedictine nuns, this church contains well-preserved frescoes including a vivid Madonna and Child and a striking Madonna del Latte (nursing Madonna). The artwork provides a window into the religious life of medieval Matera.
• Crypt of Original Sin: Located outside the city in the wall of the Gravina di Picciano, this remarkable church is sometimes called the “Sistine Chapel of rupestrian art.” Its 8th-century fresco cycle depicting scenes from Genesis is among the most important examples of early medieval painting in the Mediterranean. Visits require advance booking and a short drive or guided tour (€12.80).

A combined ticket (€8) covers three churches in the Sassi: Santa Maria de Idris, Santa Lucia alle Malve, and San Pietro Barisano. You can purchase tickets at any of the churches or at tourism information points.

Important: Never touch the frescoes. The oils from human skin cause irreparable damage to these fragile paintings, and you’ll notice that areas around doorframes and at hand height have already suffered from centuries of contact.

Step Inside a Cave House (Casa Grotta)

To understand how Materani actually lived in the Sassi before the evacuation, you need to step inside a Casa Grotta: a traditional cave dwelling that has been preserved or recreated as a museum. These small but powerful exhibits show you what the statistics and historical accounts can only describe: the reality of an entire family sharing a single dark room with their animals, sleeping in alcoves carved into the rock, cooking over an open fire, and collecting water in a cistern dug into the floor.

The most visited is Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario in Sasso Caveoso, a carefully preserved dwelling furnished with authentic period items: a straw mattress on a wooden bed frame, a loom for weaving, tools for working the land, and a stable area where the family’s mule or donkey would have stood. An audioguide explains each element and brings the daily routine of the former inhabitants to life. The space is small, which is precisely the point: standing there, in the cool dim air with the rough rock walls pressing close, you begin to grasp both the hardship of that existence and the miracle of Matera’s transformation. Entry costs €5.

For a quieter experience, Casa Grotta C’era Una Volta in Sasso Barisano offers a similarly authentic recreation at a lower price (€2) and with fewer crowds. Whichever you choose, a Casa Grotta visit pairs well with the film at Casa Noha: see the history first, then witness how it was lived.

Discover Matera’s Story at Casa Noha

If you want to understand Matera rather than just see it, make Casa Noha your first stop. This historic house in the heart of the Sassi, once belonging to the noble De Noha family, now hosts a 30-minute multimedia experience that tells Matera’s story from prehistoric times to the present day. You move between five vaulted rooms as films are projected on the ancient walls, covering the evolution of the cave dwellings, the desperate poverty of the early 20th century, the evacuation, and the remarkable rebirth that followed UNESCO recognition.

The presentation is well-produced and genuinely moving, especially the sections dealing with the “vergogna nazionale” period. English audioguides are available. By the time you emerge back into the sunlight, you’ll see everything around you with new eyes: the restored facades, the sealed doorways, the layers of history visible in every wall.

Casa Noha is managed by the FAI (Fondo Ambiente Italiano), Italy’s National Trust equivalent. Open daily except Wednesdays, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (5 p.m. in winter). Entry costs €6.50.

Descend into the Palombaro Lungo (Underground Water Cistern)

Hidden beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Matera’s elegant main square in the modern town, lies one of the city’s most extraordinary spaces: the Palombaro Lungo, often called the “Cathedral of Water.” This massive underground cistern was carved from the rock in the 19th century as part of the ingenious water management system that sustained life in the arid Sassi. Rainwater was collected on the plateau above, filtered through layers of sand and rock, and channeled into this and other cisterns throughout the city. At its peak, the Palombaro Lungo held up to 5 million liters.

The cistern was abandoned when a modern aqueduct arrived in the 1920s and was only rediscovered in 1991 when construction workers accidentally broke through into the void below. What they found was astonishing: a cavernous space with rock walls coated in cocciopesto waterproof plaster, massive pillars carved from the living stone, and a ceiling more than 15 meters high. Today, visitors can descend into this subterranean cathedral on guided or self-guided tours. The experience is unlike anything else in Matera: cool, echoing, and profoundly atmospheric, with still water reflecting the lights and the rusty circular marks on the ceiling left by buckets that were lost over the centuries.

Tours run throughout the day, typically taking 15-30 minutes. Entrance is via Piazza Vittorio Veneto; look for the tourism information point. Entry costs €3. The Palombaro Lungo is an excellent activity during the afternoon pausa when other attractions close.

Admire the Matera Cathedral and Historic Churches

Not everything in Matera is underground. The Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna crowns the Civita, the rocky promontory that forms Matera’s ancient acropolis between the two Sassi. Built in the 13th century in Apulian Romanesque style, the cathedral’s 52-meter bell tower dominates the skyline and serves as a constant reference point as you navigate the streets below. The facade is relatively austere, with a beautiful rose window as its main decorative element, but the interior surprises with elaborate Baroque decoration added in later centuries. Recent restoration uncovered medieval frescoes that had been hidden for hundreds of years, including a striking Last Judgment. Don’t miss the stone nativity scene carved by local sculptor Altobello Persio, a masterpiece that seems to mirror the Sassi themselves in miniature.

The terrace of Piazza Duomo offers sweeping views of the Sassi on either side, making it one of the best viewpoints in the city. Nearby, San Pietro Caveoso perches dramatically on a bluff at the edge of Sasso Caveoso, its Baroque facade standing against the backdrop of the Gravina canyon. This is one of Matera’s most photographed spots and a key location in the James Bond film No Time to Die. The church interior is simpler than the setting might suggest, but the position alone makes it worth visiting. In the modern town, San Francesco d’Assisi presents an ornate Baroque facade that rivals anything in Lecce, demonstrating that Matera’s architectural heritage extends well beyond its caves.

Visit MUSMA: Contemporary Art in Ancient Caves

For a change of pace from medieval history, the MUSMA (Museo della Scultura Contemporanea di Matera) offers contemporary art in an extraordinary setting. Housed in the 17th-century Palazzo Pomarici, the museum’s galleries extend through a network of caves and underground chambers where modern Italian and international sculptures find an unlikely but compelling home. The contrast between ancient carved rock and contemporary artistic expression creates something uniquely Materan: a reminder that this city continues to evolve, that creativity didn’t stop when the frescoes were completed.

MUSMA is open daily and costs €7. It’s an excellent choice during the afternoon pausa when many other attractions close.

Find the Best Viewpoints

Matera’s dramatic setting demands to be photographed, and the city offers numerous viewpoints that showcase the Sassi from different angles. These are the spots that will fill your camera roll and your memory:

• Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli: The classic Matera view and perhaps the most photographed spot in the city. Looking down into the Sassi, you see the Duomo bell tower rising above the stone rooftops, the rock church of Santa Maria di Idris clinging to its massive boulder, and the Gravina canyon stretching into the distance. Sunset is magical here.
• Piazza San Pietro Caveoso: At the heart of Sasso Caveoso, this piazza offers views directly into the Gravina ravine and across to the Murgia plateau. This is where James Bond raced his Aston Martin and where many of the most iconic Matera photographs are taken.
• Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio “Tre Archi”: Located near Piazza Vittorio Veneto in the modern town, this viewpoint reveals the extraordinary density of the Sassi from above. You can see how the houses are stacked on top of each other, level after level descending the hillside.
• Belvedere Murgia Timone: For the ultimate panorama, cross the canyon to this viewpoint on the opposite side. From here, you see the entire sweep of Matera spread before you: both Sassi, the Civita with its cathedral, and the modern town rising behind. Spectacular at sunset. Reachable by car (15 minutes) or on foot via the ravine hike (1.5-2 hours).
• Crialoss Cafe terrace: Above the church of San Pietro Barisano in Sasso Barisano, this casual bar offers a wonderful view for the price of a drink. Perfect for aperitivo hour.

Hike the Gravina Ravine and Murgia Plateau

For a completely different perspective on Matera, cross the canyon into the Parco della Murgia Materana, a protected natural area that contains wild landscape, prehistoric caves, and additional rupestrian churches with ancient frescoes. The hike begins at Porta Pistola (marked on Google Maps as “Ponte Tibetano della Gravina – Accesso al Parco”), where a trail descends into the ravine. The path is rocky and quite steep in places, passing through scrubby vegetation and crossing the stream bed at the bottom. About 15 minutes from the start, you reach the Ponte Tibetano, a suspension bridge that sways gently as you cross.

From the bridge, the trail climbs the opposite side of the canyon to Belvedere Murgia Timone, the viewpoint described above. Along the way, you’ll pass several rupestrian churches carved into the rock face, some with fragments of frescoes still visible through iron gates. The round trip is approximately 3.5 kilometers with about 210 meters of elevation gain, taking 1.5 to 2 hours depending on your pace and how often you stop for photos. Wear proper hiking shoes, bring plenty of water, and avoid the midday heat in summer. Early morning or late afternoon offers the best light and more comfortable temperatures.

Experience Matera by Night

When the sun sets, Matera transforms. Thousands of small lights illuminate the stone facades of the Sassi, and the city takes on an almost supernatural quality. Looking out over the illuminated houses cascading down the hillside, you could be gazing at a Christmas crib made impossibly, magically life-size. The day-trippers have departed, the narrow streets grow quiet, and a romantic, timeless atmosphere descends over everything.

An evening stroll is essential. Walk the same streets you explored during the day and see how different they feel after dark: the warm glow of lights in cave windows, the sound of conversation drifting from restaurants, the stars visible above the canyon. Find a viewpoint like Piazzetta Pascoli or the Tre Archi belvedere and simply absorb the scene. Better yet, settle in at one of the bars with terraces overlooking the Sassi and watch the sky deepen from orange to purple to black while the city lights multiply below. This is why staying overnight in Matera is so highly recommended: the evening hours reveal a dimension of the city that day visitors never see.

Take a Guided Walking Tour

In a city this layered and complex, a knowledgeable local guide transforms your visit from sightseeing to genuine understanding. You’ll discover hidden details you’d never notice on your own, learn the stories behind the stones, and find corners of the Sassi that don’t appear on any map. A good guide brings Matera’s history to life in a way that no guidebook or audioguide can match.

Where to Eat in Matera: Local Food and Best Restaurants

Matera’s cuisine is cucina povera at its finest: simple peasant cooking that relies on quality ingredients and time-honored techniques rather than elaborate preparation. The same foods that sustained generations of cave dwellers now fill the tables of atmospheric restaurants carved into the rock. This is not refined gastronomy; it’s honest, satisfying food that reflects the land and its history.

Must-Try Local Foods

Several dishes and products are essential to any Matera food experience:

• Pane di Matera (IGP): Matera’s bread is legendary, recognized with Protected Geographical Indication status. Made from local durum wheat with a long natural fermentation, it emerges from wood-fired ovens with a thick, dark crust and a soft, golden interior. The flavor is rich and slightly tangy, and a good loaf can last for days without going stale. Try it fresh from a bakery, torn apart and eaten with nothing more than a drizzle of local olive oil. Once you’ve tasted it, you’ll understand why Materani are so proud of their bread.
• Peperoni Cruschi: These dried sweet peppers from nearby Senise (IGP) are fried until crispy and served as a snack, crumbled over pasta, or used to add flavor and texture to countless dishes. The taste is sweet and slightly smoky, with a satisfying crunch that’s unlike anything else. They’re addictive; buy a bag to take home.
• Fave e Cicoria: Creamy pureed fava beans served with bitter chicory greens and a generous pour of olive oil. This is the quintessential dish of Southern Italian cucina povera, humble ingredients transformed into something deeply satisfying.
• Crapiata: A hearty soup of mixed legumes and grains (chickpeas, beans, fava beans, wheat, lentils, cicerchie) traditionally prepared on August 1st. The recipe dates to Roman times, and you’ll find it on menus throughout the year in traditional restaurants.
• Orecchiette alla Materana: Ear-shaped pasta baked with tomato sauce, lamb, and local cheeses. The Materan version differs slightly from the Puglian preparation, reflecting the region’s own traditions.
• Cialledda: A refreshing summer dish of stale bread softened with water and dressed with fresh tomatoes, onion, olive oil, and oregano. It showcases the famous bread in yet another form.
• Strazzate: Crumbly almond biscuits with coffee, perfect with an after-dinner espresso.

Pair your meal with local wines: Matera DOC reds made from Primitivo or Aglianico grapes are robust and full-bodied, perfect with the hearty local cuisine.

Best Restaurants and Food Spots

For traditional cuisine:

• Trattoria del Caveoso: A reliable choice for authentic Materan cooking in an atmospheric cave setting. The menu focuses on local classics prepared without fuss, and the prices are reasonable for the quality.
• La Lopa: Known for traditional Basilicata dishes, particularly the fave e cicoria and seasonal specialties. The cave interior and Sassi location add to the experience.
• Osteria al Casale: Slightly outside the tourist core, offering farm-to-table cooking with seasonal local ingredients. Worth seeking out for a more refined take on regional cuisine.

For quick bites:

• 5 Lire Pizza: Pizza by the slice (pizza al taglio) with a panoramic terrace near Piazzetta Pascoli. Affordable, tasty, and the view is free.
• Kapunto Pasta Lab: Fresh handmade pasta served quickly and casually. Watch the pasta being made, then enjoy a plate of orecchiette like a local on lunch break.

For gelato:

• I Vizi degli Angeli: One of Matera’s best gelaterias, with creative flavors alongside the classics. The perfect reward after climbing all those stairs.

For aperitivo with a view:

• Terrazza Cavaliere: Cocktails and spritzes with a spectacular view of the Sassi from the back terrace. The perfect spot for sunset.
• Crialoss Cafe: Perched above San Pietro Barisano in Sasso Barisano, offering a different angle on the city. Relaxed atmosphere, good drinks.
• Borgo Antico Bistrot: A wine bar with a romantic terrace overlooking the Sassi. Ideal for aperitivo or a late dinner.

Read our full guide to food in Matera!

Where to Stay in Matera: Cave Hotels and Accommodations

Staying overnight in Matera is highly recommended: it’s the only way to experience the Sassi illuminated at night and in the quiet early morning, when the day-trippers haven’t yet arrived and the city feels like it belongs only to you. And where else in the world can you sleep in a cave with modern comforts? Many of Matera’s accommodations are converted cave dwellings, ranging from simple B&Bs to some of Italy’s most distinctive luxury hotels.

Luxury options:

• Palazzo Gattini Luxury Hotel: A former noble palace transformed into a five-star property with spa, elegant rooms, and impeccable service. The rooftop terrace offers commanding views.
• Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita: Perhaps the most atmospheric accommodation in Matera. Cave suites feature rough-hewn walls, candlelit bathtubs, and views over the Gravina canyon. Romantic and unforgettable.
• Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel and Spa: Features an underground pool and spa carved into the rock. Modern luxury meets ancient setting.

Mid-range options:

• Locanda di San Martino: Beautiful cave rooms and an underground spa pool at a more accessible price point. Excellent value for the experience.
• Palazzotto Residence and Winery: Atmospheric cave accommodations with on-site wine tastings from the owner’s vineyard.
• L’Hotel in Pietra: Set in a 13th-century church, offering cave rooms with slightly higher ceilings for those who feel claustrophobic in tight spaces.

Budget-friendly options:

• B&B La Corte dei Pastori: Fantastic location near San Pietro Caveoso, generous breakfast, family-run warmth. One of the best value options in the Sassi.
• B&B La Gemma dei Sassi: Good reviews, authentic cave experience at a lower cost.
• Affittacamere Vicolo Fiore: Simple, welcoming, affordable. A no-frills option for budget travelers who still want to sleep in the Sassi.

Practical Tips for Visiting Matera

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions About Matera

Have more questions about Matera? We’ve got you covered!

Why is Matera so famous?

Matera is renowned for its ancient Sassi cave dwellings, its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1993), its designation as 2019 European Capital of Culture, and its role as a filming location for movies including The Passion of the Christ and the James Bond film No Time to Die.

Is Matera the third oldest city in the world?

Yes, Matera is often cited as the third oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world, after Jericho and Aleppo, with evidence of human habitation dating back approximately 9,000 years to the Paleolithic era.

Where was James Bond filmed in Matera?

The opening chase sequence of No Time to Die (2021) was filmed throughout Matera’s Sassi, with key scenes around Piazza San Pietro Caveoso and the narrow streets of both historic districts.

Is Matera worth visiting?

Absolutely. If you’re looking for a destination with deep history, stunning architecture, authentic atmosphere, and an experience unlike anywhere else in Italy, Matera delivers. It’s particularly rewarding for those willing to stay overnight and explore beyond the main sights.

How do you pronounce Matera?

Mah-TEH-rah, with the stress on the second syllable.

How many days do you need in Matera?

Ideally two nights to explore thoroughly and experience the city at different times of day. One night is the minimum for an overnight stay; a day trip covers the main highlights but misses the evening atmosphere.

Is Matera difficult to walk?

Yes, the Sassi involve many stairs and uneven surfaces. It’s genuinely challenging for those with mobility issues, and there are very few accessible routes. Comfortable, non-slip shoes are essential for everyone.

Can you do a day trip to Matera from Bari?

Yes, Matera is approximately one hour from Bari by car or bus, making a day trip feasible. However, an overnight stay is more rewarding and allows you to experience the city at night.

Plan Your Matera Adventure

Matera is not a city you simply visit. It’s a place that gets under your skin, that makes you reconsider what a city can be, that connects you to thousands of years of human persistence and creativity carved into stone. From the prehistoric caves to the boutique hotels, from the abandoned hovels to the bustling trattorias, Matera tells a story of hardship, resilience, and remarkable rebirth that resonates long after you leave.

With this guide, you have everything you need to explore Matera like a local: the essential sights, the hidden corners, the practical tips that make the difference between a good trip and an unforgettable one. Whether you wander independently or join a guided tour to discover the stories behind the stones, this ancient city is ready to leave you with memories that last a lifetime.

Buon viaggio!